There are some very fine wines to be found outside of the traditional AOC Bordeaux classification, as it seems some experienced winemakers are opting out of the tightly controlled system.

Dominique Leandre-Chevalier, a winemaker from Blaye in the Bordeaux area, told the Los Angeles Times that the rules regarding Bordeaux AOC are too restrictive - particularly when it comes to using grape varietals.

Mr Leandre-Chevalier like to create his wines from little-used grapes and constantly experiments with his winemaking, observing ancient techniques in search of fruity, balanced wines that age well.

Recently he chose to de-classify most of his wine, taking it out of Bordeaux AOC jurisdiction. While the produce must now be labelled "table wine", he says this "sends a message" about how the AOC rules must evolve.

Another winemaker to have stepped out of the AOC jurisdiction is Loire Valley producer Oiliver Cousin, who believes that certification rewards low-standard, chemically-enhanced produce.

He told the publication that making natural wine, without the help of chemicals to kill bacteria or correct mistakes, is the only way to go.

"Making wine this way is the story of humanity. You have to defend it. Otherwise, you might as well make wine on a computer. And in 50 years, if we continue making industrial wine, it won't interest anybody.

"When you make something naturally, it has a magic to it. Would you put dish soap in your food? I don't put sulphur in my wine."

Earlier this year, Cousin was informed that he will face criminal fraud charges, due to the fact he uses the name Anjou, a term protected by the regional AOC rules, on his bottles.

As a result, the winemaker is facing a fine of up to £50,000, as well as a possible jail terms.

The AOC protection of names used in winemaking was made law in order to prevent cheap imitations from abroad being able to market themselves as Bordeaux wine.