The climats of Burgundy may now contain the ideal conditions for winemaking, but this is only because man has bent them to his will over hundreds of years.

This is the view of Aubert de Villaine, owner of Burgundy's premier wine estate, Domaine de la Romanee-Conti.

Mr De Villaine, chairing the Climats of Burgundy: physical constraints or human will? seminar at the World Wine Symposium at Villa d'Este on Lake Como, explained that the region is a "privileged ecosystem" for cultivation of the Pinot Noir grape, but there are strict physical limitations imposed.

"Man has exploited the limitations in Burgundy and made it the basis of his winemaking technique, creating the conditions to make wine in Burgundy rather than the other way round," the Drinks Business reports him as saying.

While Bordeaux describes the combination of soil, climate conditions and environmental factors in its vineyards as terroir, Burgundy uses the term climat, which Mr De Villaine says better encompasses the diversity of the land in the region.

Understanding and working with this diversity is the key to producing good Burgundy.

He continued: "The climats of Burgundy are the joint work of the vine grower and the terroir.

"It's important to underline the link between vine grower and land. The region's success is down to the combined work of man and nature."

The hard work undertaken over many centuries in Burgundy is certainly attracting interest in China.

Charles Curtis MW, head of wine for Christie's in Asia, says that Burgundy has truly "arrived" in the Chinese wine market and Mr De Villaine's Domaine de la Romanee-Conti is leading the way, with buyers identifying the wine as a prime investment opportunity.

John Kapon, chief executive of Acker Merrill and Condit, added that Burgundy is "sizzling" in Hong Kong sales at the moment.