The classification system in St Emilion can be confusing for the uninitiated, as Grand Cru does not necessarily mean what it does elsewhere and all chateaux are subject to a reclassification every decade.

In the Irish Times, John Wilson said Chateau Cheval Blanc is the greatest of the St Emilion wines, and together with Chateau Ausone, these wines form a "super-category" of their own within the Premier Grand Crus, which are superior to the Grand Cru Classes and ordinary Grand Crus.

Chateau Ausone is back on track after a difficult period, while Cheval Blanc has remained consistent in its excellent quality, noted Mr Wilson - although the region has plenty of less prestigious producers that are well worth investigating.

"Many canny buyers look to the satellite appellations of St Georges, Lussac, Montagne and Puisseguin, outlying villages which carry the prefix of Saint-Emilion and can produce very good wines in the same style, or to the Cotes de Bordeaux," said the journalist.

Recently, Decanter reported that a meeting had taken place between French appellations body INAO and a number of leading chateaux in St Emilion to discuss changes to classification rules.