Coche-Dury

Coche-Dury-PP.jpg

Coche-Dury: The Importance

Even critics seldom get to taste the top wines of Coche Dury, but the last two decades have seen the elusive and mysterious Jean-François Coche emerge as “the essence of Burgundy’s vigneron culture,” in Antonio Galloni’s words. And as John Gilman observes, “Jean-François Coche’s name is now murmured with the same respectful awe that is reserved for Henri Jayer. From three starred Michelin restaurants to the auction floors of New York and London, it is the white wines of Monsieur Coche that are the most ardently sought after.” Jancis Robinson tells her readers that he is “perhaps the single most intriguing winemaker I visit. The ‘King of Meursault’ and ‘the best winemaker in Burgundy’ are just two expressions coined to describe the legendary J.F Coche-Dury.” However she also adds that “if you want to visit Coche-Dury you are almost certainly out of luck,” and sure enough, although Robert Parker acclaims Coche-Dury as “one of the greatest winemakers on planet Earth,” he himself never got the chance to taste at the Domaine. Scores have little bearing on the market for Coche, since whatever is available is bought up at lightning speed by fans of the Domaine.


Coche-Dury: The Insight

“The two crown jewels amongst the white wines in the Coche cellar are the Meursault-Perrières and the Corton-Charlemagne”, writes John Gilman.  Surprisingly, Coche makes only one Grand Cru wine: Corton-Charlemagne, which Neal Martin describes as “liquid mineral. Imagine a limestone quarry being melted down and then distilled multiple times until there is just enough to fill your wine glass.” Coche makes Burgundy’s most sought-after Premier Cru whites: Meursault-Les-Perrières, Meursault Genevrières and Meursault Caillerets. The Meursault Villages, and lieu-dits like Meursault Rougeots, Meursault Vireuils and Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignères are also noteworthy. Some red wines are made: Auxey Duresses, Monthelie, a Volnay Premier Cru, and up until 2013 a parcel in Pommard called “Vaumuriens” which was sold to fund the purchase of more Corton-Charlemagne. One whole third of the Coche’s 9 hectare total production is regularly declassified and labelled generically, which partly explains the high quality level of the Coche Bourgogne Blanc and Bourgogne Aligoté, which in Galloni’s words “emphasizes crystalline focus, energy and tension” and can match many a Meursault for quality.

 

All the white wines are famous for their “prodigious resistance to premature oxidation,” in the words of Jancis Robinson, who explains that the influence of the Domaine’s house style is “at least partially responsible for the international trend of ‘struck match’ Chardonnay making” as countless others, both in Burgundy and elsewhere, have adopted more closed, tightly-knit styles for their Chardonnay to emulate the long ageing potential of Coche-Dury. The independent consumers’ website Oxidised-Burgs classes Coche-Dury among those producers “who have very little premature oxidation as a percentage of bottles opened and indeed seem to have no higher incidence of premature oxidation since 1994 than they did before.” The only other members of this category are François Ravenau in Chablis, DRC, and the affiliated Domaines Leroy and d’Auvenay.

 

Miniscule yields from ancient vines, meticulously sensitive vinification and no filtration before bottling give the Coche-Dury wines their characteristic intensely concentrated fruit and crisp but balanced acidity. They also have the potential to age for a very long time. The white wines of Coche-Dury have cult status, with prices and rarity to match. The red wines, which are made in a soft, gentle style, are often overlooked, and offer a perfumed and seductive style of Pinot Noir.


Coche-Dury: The Background

“The true golden age of Coche began,” according to John Gilman, in 1972 when a young Jean-François Coche took over the small Meursault-based Domaine that was founded by his grandfather Léon Coche in 1920. In 1975 he married Odile Dury, and the merging of their family estates gave the name we see on labels today. Jean-François was very meticulous in the vineyard and in cellar, but the secret to his enormous and unique success is still a mystery. According to Steve Öhman, “there are no secrets, just hard work in the vineyards.” While he tops up his barrels as often as possible to prevent oxidation, Jancis Robinson remarks that “he is one of the very few Burgundy growers who definitively does not want you to pour the remains of your precious wine sample back into the barrel.” As a character she finds him “miraculously unworldly. He really does care for little other than his precious vines and the barrels that he tends under the most modest of modern villas on the outskirts [of Meursault].” Since 2003 his son Raphael Coche has gradually taken over the day-to-day work at the Domaine, though it appears Jean-François still plays an important role. Tasting the 2013s from barrel, Allen Meadows finds Raphael still referencing his father’s remarks on the mildew-stricken vintage, which reminded him of 1968.

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WINES COLLAPSE ALL

MARKET PRICE    ?

2013 Auxey Duresses Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Auxey Duresses Burgundy

£1,175.00
£100.00
DP £100.00

2012 Auxey Duresses Coche-Dury Burgundy

2012 Auxey Duresses Burgundy

£1,393.00
£118.00

2011 Auxey Duresses Coche-Dury Burgundy

89.75

2011 Auxey Duresses Burgundy

89.75
£1,273.00
£108.00

2009 Auxey Duresses Coche-Dury Burgundy

2009 Auxey Duresses Burgundy

£1,728.00
£1,728.00
£867.00
£146.00

2005 Auxey Duresses Coche-Dury Burgundy

2005 Auxey Duresses Burgundy

£1,587.00
£134.00

2013 Auxey Duresses Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Auxey Duresses Rouge Burgundy

£1,683.00
£142.00

2008 Auxey Duresses Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Auxey Duresses Rouge Burgundy

£1,914.00
£161.00

2014 Bourgogne Aligote Coche-Dury Burgundy

2014 Bourgogne Aligote Burgundy

£1,417.00
£120.00

2013 Bourgogne Aligote Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Bourgogne Aligote Burgundy

£1,369.00
£116.00
DP £116.00

2010 Bourgogne Aligote Coche-Dury Burgundy

2010 Bourgogne Aligote Burgundy

£1,381.00
£117.00

2006 Bourgogne Aligote Coche-Dury Burgundy

2006 Bourgogne Aligote Burgundy

£1,417.00
£120.00

2013 Bourgogne Blanc Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Bourgogne Blanc Burgundy

£1,878.00
£158.00

2011 Bourgogne Blanc Coche-Dury Burgundy

2011 Bourgogne Blanc Burgundy

£1,491.00
£1,491.00
£744.00

2009 Bourgogne Blanc Coche-Dury Burgundy

2009 Bourgogne Blanc Burgundy

£1,818.00
£153.00

2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay Coche-Dury Burgundy

2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy

£2,084.00
£175.00

2013 Bourgogne Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Bourgogne Rouge Burgundy

£1,211.00
£103.00
DP £103.00

2012 Bourgogne Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

86.0

2012 Bourgogne Rouge Burgundy

86.0
£1,175.00
£100.00

2011 Bourgogne Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

87.5

2011 Bourgogne Rouge Burgundy

87.5
£1,151.00
£98.00

2012 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

96.0

2012 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

96.0
£45,997.00
£45,997.00
£23,099.00
£3,855.00
DP £3,855.00

2011 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.5

2011 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

95.5
£24,572.00
£2,051.00

2009 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

2009 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

£27,068.00
£2,259.00

2008 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

£27,068.00
£2,259.00

2007 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.0

2007 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

95.0
£27,068.00
£2,259.00
DP £2,259.00

2006 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.5

2006 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

95.5
£23,948.00
£1,997.00

2005 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

98.0

2005 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

98.0
£44,456.00
DP £3,723.00

2002 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

96.0

2002 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

96.0
£31,724.00
£2,652.00

2001 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

2001 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

£29,540.00
£2,468.00

1986 Corton Charlemagne Coche-Dury Burgundy

99.0

1986 Corton Charlemagne Burgundy

99.0
£50,276.00
£8,429.00

2014 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

2014 Meursault Burgundy

£5,227.00
£5,227.00
£436.00

2013 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Burgundy

£4,036.00
£4,036.00
£337.00
DP £337.00

2011 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

89.75

2011 Meursault Burgundy

89.75
£3,771.00
DP £3,771.00
£315.00
DP £315.00

2008 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

93.0

2008 Meursault Burgundy

93.0
£5,697.00
£5,697.00
£475.00

2005 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

2005 Meursault Burgundy

£5,707.00
£475.00

1992 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

1992 Meursault Burgundy

£7,078.00
£589.00

1990 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

1990 Meursault Burgundy

£7,417.00
£618.00

1988 Meursault Coche-Dury Burgundy

1988 Meursault Burgundy

£4,836.00
£402.00

2013 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

£6,713.00
£6,713.00
£559.00

2012 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

94.0

2012 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

94.0
£7,914.00
£659.00

2011 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

93.0

2011 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

93.0
£7,381.00
£615.00

2008 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

£8,312.00
£692.00

2005 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

96.0

2005 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

96.0
£9,659.00
£804.00

2003 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

2003 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

£5,393.00
£449.00

2002 Meursault Caillerets Coche-Dury Burgundy

2002 Meursault Caillerets Burgundy

£9,369.00
£780.00

2013 Meursault Chevalieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Chevalieres Burgundy

£5,513.00
£459.00

2011 Meursault Chevalieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2011 Meursault Chevalieres Burgundy

£6,435.00
£536.00

2008 Meursault Chevalieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Meursault Chevalieres Burgundy

£6,641.00
£553.00

2005 Meursault Chevalieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2005 Meursault Chevalieres Burgundy

£9,791.00
£816.00

2001 Meursault Chevalieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2001 Meursault Chevalieres Burgundy

£6,495.00
£541.00

2013 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

£8,519.00
£710.00

2012 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

96.0

2012 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

96.0
£9,465.00
£788.00

2011 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2011 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

£9,088.00
£757.00

2010 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

94.0

2010 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

94.0
£11,875.00
£989.00

2009 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

93.0

2009 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

93.0
£11,371.00
£947.00

2008 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

£11,287.00
£940.00

2006 Meursault Genevrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

94.5

2006 Meursault Genevrieres Burgundy

94.5
£8,324.00
£693.00

2013 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£13,479.00
£1,122.00

2012 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.0

2012 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

95.0
£17,037.00
£1,419.00

2011 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.0

2011 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

95.0
£15,145.00
£1,260.00
DP £1,135.00

2010 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

97.0

2010 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

97.0
£21,307.00
£1,777.00

2009 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

94.0

2009 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

94.0
£12,115.00
£1,009.00

2008 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£15,779.00
£1,315.00

2007 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

95.0

2007 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

95.0
£14,749.00
£1,227.00
DP £1,227.00

2005 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2005 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£26,492.00
£2,211.00

2004 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2004 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£16,965.00
£1,413.00

2002 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2002 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£25,196.00
£2,103.00

2001 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2001 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£15,923.00
£1,327.00

2000 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

2000 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£16,413.00
£1,367.00

1999 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

1999 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£20,816.00
£1,733.00
£1,630.00

1997 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

92.0

1997 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

92.0
£16,581.00
£1,381.00

1996 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

99.0

1996 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

99.0
£30,188.00
£2,522.00

1995 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

1995 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£19,419.00
£1,617.00

1994 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

1994 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£16,905.00
£1,408.00

1991 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

1991 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£17,875.00
£1,488.00

1988 Meursault Les Perrieres Coche-Dury Burgundy

1988 Meursault Les Perrieres Burgundy

£14,905.00
£1,240.00

2012 Meursault Rouge Coche-Dury Burgundy

2012 Meursault Rouge Burgundy

£1,806.00
£152.00

2013 Meursault Rougeots Coche-Dury Burgundy

2013 Meursault Rougeots Burgundy

£4,411.00
£367.00

2011 Meursault Rougeots Coche-Dury Burgundy

93.0

2011 Meursault Rougeots Burgundy

93.0
£5,294.00
£441.00

2010 Meursault Rougeots Coche-Dury Burgundy

2010 Meursault Rougeots Burgundy

£8,725.00
£727.00

2009 Meursault Rougeots Coche-Dury Burgundy

2009 Meursault Rougeots Burgundy

£8,447.00
£703.00

2008 Meursault Rougeots Coche-Dury Burgundy

2008 Meursault Rougeots Burgundy

£5,683.00
£473.00
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